Low Taper Fade for Thick Hair: Best Styles to Remove Bulk & Keep Shape

Thick hair is a gift, until it turns your head into a helmet two weeks after a haircut. The problem is rarely length; it is weight. Thick hair builds out sideways, especially above the ears and at the back. A low taper fade removes that bulk where it matters while leaving you plenty to style on top.

Quick Facts

Why Thick Hair Needs a Taper

Thick hair has two common issues:

1. Width above the ears. Even short sides puff out and make the head look wider.
2. Shelf effect. Long, heavy hair on top sits on top of the sides like a ledge.

A low taper cleans the lower sides and nape, and when combined with weight removal on top, it gives thick hair a controlled, deliberate shape.

Best Low Taper Fade Styles for Thick Hair

1. Textured Crop

Thick hair holds texture beautifully. Short, choppy and full. See textured crop.

2. Quiff

Thick hair has the density to hold a strong quiff all day. See quiff.

3. Pompadour

The classic big-volume style. Thick hair is ideal for it. See pompadour.

4. Slick Back

Thick hair slicks back evenly without showing the scalp. See slick back.

5. Comb Over

Full and polished. See comb over.

6. Crew Cut

The easiest way to manage very thick hair. See crew cut.

7. Messy Fringe

Thick hair pushed forward in heavy, piecey sections. See fringe.

8. Blowout

Thick hair creates huge, structured volume. See blowout.

9. Long Thick Hair

Long thick hair looks great with a low taper that removes weight around the ears and nape. See long hair.

10. Modern Mullet

Thick hair gives the mullet volume at the back. See modern mullet.

How to Ask Your Barber

"My hair is very thick and gets bulky fast. Low taper fade, skin at the bottom, and keep the sides at a #2 or #3 above it. On top, please remove weight with texturizing or thinning, so it doesn't sit like a helmet. I want [style], about [X] inches."

Useful techniques to mention:

• Texturizing / point cutting: creates separation.
• Thinning shears (used carefully): remove internal bulk without changing length.
• Slide cutting or channel cutting: reduces weight while keeping a natural shape.
• Undercutting slightly: making the hair directly under the top a bit shorter helps it sit flat.

Styling Thick Hair

1. Dry thoroughly. Thick hair holds water; style on fully or almost fully dry hair.
2. Blow-dry into shape. Thick hair follows the direction it is dried in.
3. Use stronger hold. A matte clay or strong paste for textured looks; pomade for slick styles.
4. Work product evenly from the roots. Thick hair often has an untouched middle layer.

See our products guide for more.

Common Mistakes

• Leaving the sides at a #4 or longer. On thick hair, that creates bulk.
• Light products. Creams and sea salt sprays often cannot hold thick hair.
• Going too long between cuts. Thick hair loses shape fast. Every 3–4 weeks for the top.
• Over-thinning. Too much thinning creates frizz and fluff. Ask for moderate weight removal.

Thick Hair vs Coarse Hair: Why It Matters

People often say "thick" when they mean two different things:

• Thick (dense) hair means lots of hairs per square centimetre. The scalp is barely visible even when cut short.
• Coarse hair means each strand is wide in diameter. It feels stiff and holds shape well, but can resist lying flat.

Many people have both. Dense hair needs weight removal; coarse hair needs direction training (blow-drying the roots where you want them to go). If your hair is coarse but not dense, avoid heavy thinning, which can make it spiky. If it is dense but fine, thinning shears are more useful.

The "Helmet Stage" and How to Avoid It

Thick hair usually looks best for about two weeks after a cut, then starts to puff out. The problem appears first in three spots:

1. Above the ears, where hair grows outward.
2. The crown, where hair often stands up.
3. The back of the head, where weight builds into a "shelf."

A low taper solves the first and helps the third. For the crown, ask your barber to leave it slightly longer so the weight pushes it down, rather than cutting it short so it stands up. Booking a quick taper refresh at two and a half to three weeks prevents the helmet stage completely.

Daily Styling Time for Thick Hair

If you want minimal effort, choose a shorter style. Thick hair rewards structure, but structure takes time.

Heat and Thick Hair

Because thick hair holds water, people with thick hair often blow-dry on high heat for a long time. That can dry out the hair and cause frizz. Rough-dry the hair on medium heat until it is about 80 percent dry, then use focused heat only to set the shape. A heat protectant spray helps if you blow-dry daily.