"Give me a #2 on the sides." It sounds precise, but plenty of people walk out of the barbershop surprised by how short a #2 actually is. Clipper guard numbers are the language of fades, and knowing them helps you ask for exactly what you want, avoid surprises, and understand your barber.
Clipper Guard Size Chart
Guard sizes are mostly standardised across major clipper brands, though some vary slightly. These are the common approximate lengths:
| Guard | Inches | Millimetres | What it looks like |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bare blade, lever closed | about 1/50" | about 0.5 mm | Close to skin; scalp clearly visible |
| #0 (bare blade, lever open) | about 1/25" | about 1 mm | Very short stubble |
| #0.5 | 1/16" | 1.5 mm | Dark shadow; scalp visible in light |
| #1 | 1/8" | 3 mm | Very short; scalp slightly visible |
| #1.5 | 3/16" | 4.5 mm | Short; little scalp showing |
| #2 | 1/4" | 6 mm | Short but covers the scalp |
| #3 | 3/8" | 10 mm | Classic short sides |
| #4 | 1/2" | 13 mm | Short-medium; noticeable hair |
| #5 | 5/8" | 16 mm | Medium |
| #6 | 3/4" | 19 mm | Medium-long |
| #7 | 7/8" | 22 mm | Long |
| #8 | 1" | 25 mm | Longest standard guard |
A "skin" or "bald" finish goes below the bare blade, using a foil shaver or razor. Exact millimetres differ by clipper model, so treat this chart as a guide, not a guarantee.
How Barbers Use Guards in a Low Taper Fade
A low taper fade works from short at the bottom to longer above. A typical progression:
| Zone | Common guard |
|---|---|
| Bottom edge (sideburn and nape) | Bare blade, #0 or skin |
| First blend | #0.5 |
| Second blend | #1 |
| Third blend | #1.5 or #2 |
| Sides above the taper | #3 or #4 |
| Top | Scissors or #5+ |
On a skin low taper, the bottom edge goes to skin with a foil shaver. On a conservative low taper, the bottom might never go shorter than #1. See low taper skin fade for the skin version.
The Clipper Lever: The Secret to Smooth Blends
Most clippers have a lever on the side that moves the cutting blade.
- Lever closed (up): shortest cut for that guard.
- Lever open (down): slightly longer cut, usually by around a millimetre or less.
Barbers use the lever to create half-steps between guards. For example, a #1 with the lever open sits between a #1 and a #1.5. This is how a fade looks seamless rather than stepped. If you cut at home, using the lever is the single biggest improvement you can make. Our home cutting guide explains how.
How Guard Numbers Look on Different Hair
The same guard looks different depending on your hair:
- Dark, thick hair: shorter guards still look full. A #1 can read as a dark shadow.
- Light or blonde hair: the scalp shows through much sooner. A #2 might look like a #1 on darker hair. See low taper fade with blonde hair.
- Fine or thin hair: the scalp shows at longer lengths. Choose one guard longer than you think. See low taper fade for thin hair.
- Curly or coily hair: curls compress under the clipper and spring back, so guards look slightly shorter than on straight hair. See curly hair and afro.
Choosing Your Numbers
If you want a subtle, office-safe taper: bottom #1, blend to #2, sides #3 or #4.
If you want a classic low taper fade: bottom bare blade or #0.5, blend #1 and #1.5, sides #3.
If you want a sharp low skin taper: bottom skin, blend #0.5 to #1.5, sides #2 or #3.
If you want a buzz cut with a taper: top #2 or #3 all over, taper from #1 to skin at the bottom.
If you want a crew cut: top #4 to #6 or scissors, taper bottom #0.5, sides #2.
Using Numbers When Talking to Your Barber
Numbers make conversations faster:
"Low taper fade, skin at the bottom, blending into a #3 on the sides, scissor-cut on top."
If you only know one number, give the side length. That is where most surprises happen. More script ideas are in how to ask your barber for a low taper fade.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a #1 or #2 shorter?
A #1 is shorter. Lower numbers mean shorter hair. A #1 is about 3 mm; a #2 is about 6 mm.
What number is a skin fade?
Skin fades go below a #0 using a foil shaver or razor at the bottom. Bare blade with the lever closed is the shortest clipper length.
What guard is used for a low taper fade?
Usually a #0.5 or bare blade at the bottom, blending through #1 and #1.5, into a #3 or #4 on the sides.
What does a #0.5 guard look like?
About 1.5 mm. On dark hair it looks like a dark shadow; on light hair the scalp is clearly visible.
Do all clipper brands use the same guard sizes?
Most popular brands follow similar sizes, but there can be small differences, especially in the half sizes and bare-blade lengths. If you change clippers, test on a less visible area first.
